
To remove wallpaper, first find out what type it is, then use the method that type needs. Lift a corner and pull. If the whole sheet comes off dry, you are done in an afternoon with no water at all. If only the top layer peels, peel it and soak the backing left behind. If nothing peels, score the surface lightly, soak it with hot water and vinegar or a wallpaper stripper, wait about 15 minutes and scrape. Steam is for plaster walls and stubborn layers, not for drywall.
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The reason most removal jobs go badly is not the wrong product. It is using a wet, aggressive method on paper that would have peeled off dry, or on drywall that was never primed, where water softens the wall’s own paper face along with the paste. Below is the two minute test that tells you which situation you are in, a side by side of every method with what it costs and what it risks, how to get the glue off so new paint does not crack, how to repair torn drywall, and what to put on the wall afterward.

A whole room papered in one pattern is a full day job, not an afternoon. Notice the floating shelves: they are screwed through the paper, so they come down first, and the paper around each bracket hole is where tears start. Render from our gallery.
The short version
Pick a corner behind a piece of furniture, lift the paper with a putty knife and pull slowly, close to parallel with the wall. What happens next tells you the type, and the type decides the method. Do it before you buy a stripper, rent a steamer or score anything, because a strippable paper scored by mistake turns a 2 hour job into a 2 day one.
| What you see | Wallpaper type | Method | Water needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Whole sheet peels off dry | Strippable | Dry peel, wash the wall | Almost none |
| Sticky back, like a decal | Peel and stick | Dry peel at a low angle, hair dryer for stubborn spots | None |
| Face peels, paper backing stays | Peelable (duplex) | Peel face dry, soak and scrape the backing | Moderate |
| Tears, soaks up water | Traditional paper | Soak, wait, scrape | Plenty |
| Tears, water beads off | Vinyl or painted over | Score lightly, soak with stripper or steam | Plenty, after scoring |
| Drywall face tears with it | Any type on unprimed drywall | Minimum water, small sections, no steamer | As little as possible |

Two different papers on one wall, a common setup in kids’ and teen rooms. Test each one separately: a bold feature paper and a small print bought years apart are often different types and need different methods. Render from our gallery.
Clear the wall, protect the floor, cut the power to that wall and check the age of the house. Prep takes about half an hour and prevents the two outcomes that cost real money: water in an outlet and a ruined floor.
What you need for a typical room:
Electrical. Take the cover plates off every outlet and switch on the wall, tape over the openings and turn off the breaker for any circuit you are going to wet. Wagner’s steamer manual puts it plainly: “DO NOT allow water or steam to enter light switches or sockets.” Work by daylight or a battery lamp while the power is off.
Floors. Tape plastic along the baseboard and lay old towels on top of it. Stripper and paste slurry runs down the wall, and the towels catch it before it reaches a wood floor or carpet. Zinsser’s data sheet asks for “a solvent resistant drop cloth covered with newspapers around the work area in case of drips and spills.”
Lead paint, if the house was built before 1978. The wallpaper itself is rarely the problem; the paint under it can be. Scraping hard enough to dig into old paint makes dust, and lead dust is the hazard. The EPA’s rule for contractors does not bind you in your own home (“In general, the RRP Rule does not apply to homeowners doing RRP projects in their own pre-1978 homes”), but its advice to homeowners is to assume older paint contains lead or have it tested and to follow its DIY lead-safe work practices. In practice: keep everything wet, never sand old paint, and clean up with wet wipes rather than a broom.
Asbestos, if it is old vinyl. Bob Vila states that “wallpaper and wallpaper adhesives manufactured prior to 1980 may contain asbestos, especially if the wallpaper has a vinyl finish.” We could not find a federal source that says how common it was, so treat that as a reason to have a sample tested if you are stripping decades old vinyl, not as a reason to panic about every room.


The best method is the gentlest one that works on your paper. Dry peeling first, hot water with vinegar or a stripper second, steam last. Every step up removes more stubborn paper and puts more water or heat into the wall, which is what damages drywall.
| Method | Works best on | What the time looks like | Cost | Risk to the wall |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dry peel | Strippable, peel and stick, the face of peelable paper | Minutes per strip | Nothing | Low; peel and stick can lift fresh or flat paint |
| Hot water and white vinegar, 1:1 | Traditional paper, peelable backing, scored vinyl | 10 to 15 minutes soaking per section (This Old House) | Under $50 with tools | Low on plaster, moderate on unprimed drywall |
| Fabric softener in hot water | Same as vinegar | Similar soak | A few dollars | Same as vinegar; no manufacturer behind the recipe |
| Enzyme stripper (Zinsser DIF) | Stubborn paper, scored vinyl, borders, paste residue | 15 minutes, then a second coat | One 22 oz concentrate makes 2 gallons, rated for a 12 by 24 foot room | Low to moderate; needs ventilation and eye protection |
| Steamer | Plaster walls, several layers, painted paper | 12 to 15 minutes to heat, about 10 seconds per spot (Wagner 715) | Buy or rent | Highest on drywall; steam above 212°F can burn |
This is the method This Old House’s paint expert Mauro Henrique uses in the video below: a 1:1 mix of hot water and white vinegar in a spray bottle, left for 10 to 15 minutes before scraping from the top corner down. Their explanation is that “the hot water helps to loosen up the adhesive and the acid from the vinegar helps to dissolve it.” Hot is the important word. Refill with hot water often, because a cool mix soaks in far more slowly.
Sometimes, on paper that already takes water. It is a household trick that spread through forums and DIY blogs, and no manufacturer publishes a ratio for it. The recipes online disagree with each other, which tells you the softener is not the active part. Most of the work is the hot water soaking through and softening the paste. On vinyl or painted paper it does nothing until you score the surface. If you already have it, try it on the test patch; do not buy it specially.
A stripper is what to reach for when water alone leaves the paper stuck. Zinsser’s technical data sheet for DIF concentrate is the clearest set of instructions we found: mix the 22 oz bottle into 2 gallons of warm water, apply with a garden sprayer, sponge or roller (“Do not use a fine mist sprayer”), “Wait 15 minutes. Repeat the application,” then “Rewet a small section and scrape off loose wallpaper.” It also asks for good cross ventilation, chemical resistant gloves, safety goggles and “a NIOSH approved respirator when spraying.” Take that last line seriously in a small bathroom.
A steamer is the strongest tool and the riskiest on drywall. Wagner’s manual for its 715 Power Steamer says it takes “about 12-15 minutes to produce steam,” a full tank runs “about 70 minutes,” and you hold the plate “flat against the scored wallpaper for about 10 seconds” before moving on and scraping the section you just steamed. Holding it longer is how people blister drywall. It is the right tool for plaster in an older house with three layers of paper on it; it is overkill for a single layer of traditional paper.
This is the wet method for traditional, vinyl and painted paper, the kind that did not peel in the test. For a typical bedroom, set aside a full day; This Old House rates the job “Time: 1 day” and “Cost: Under $50.”

By This Old House (January 2023, 6 minutes): paint expert Mauro Henrique removes removable, strippable and vinyl paper on camera. Worth watching for the technique, especially the low angle on removable paper. Two limits: a 6 minute demo cannot show what a 1970s bathroom with decades old paste is like, and the description links the tools through Amazon affiliate links.
Start at a corner and pull the panel slowly at a low angle, close to parallel with the wall. Pulling straight out toward you is what lifts paint. If a panel fights back, warm the adhesive with a hair dryer on a low or medium setting for half a minute and keep going. Wash any sticky residue off with warm soapy water once all the panels are down.
Tempaper, one of the larger peel and stick brands, gives the same instruction in its install guide: “Starting with any corner, firmly peel up or down slowly, parallel to the surface.” Whether paint comes off with it depends mostly on the wall it went onto. Tempaper recommends its paper only for walls “primed and painted with a satin or semi-gloss finish,” advises against matte and flat paint, and asks that fresh paint “fully cure” first. Paper that went onto flat paint, or onto a wall painted the weekend before, is the paper that takes paint with it. If you rent, that is worth knowing before move out day: go slower and use more heat rather than pulling harder.
Strippable paper behaves the same way without the stickiness: it is designed to release in whole sheets and leave little behind. If yours tears instead of releasing, it was either hung with the wrong paste or it is older than you think. Switch to the wet method for the stubborn parts rather than forcing it.
Get the liquid behind the face, then soak as usual. Vinyl is made to shed water, which is why it is popular in bathrooms, kitchens and mudrooms, and paint does the same thing to paper it covers. Spraying either one directly does almost nothing.


Use as little water as you can, work in small sections and skip the steamer. Drywall is gypsum wrapped in paper. When wallpaper was hung on drywall that was never primed, the paste bonds straight to that paper face, and the water that softens the paste softens the face too. Push hard and the brown drywall paper tears off with the wallpaper.
A small amount of damage is normal on drywall and easy to fix this way. Large areas of torn paper are a sign to stop removing and switch to skimming the whole wall, or to call a drywall finisher, rather than keep tearing.
Rewet the paste, wipe it off and rinse. Zinsser’s instruction is: “To remove residual adhesive, reapply DIF, wait 15 minutes, scrape or sponge off. Rinse with clean water.” On light residue, a rag dipped in the hot water and vinegar mix does the same job, which is how This Old House finishes its demo wall. Change the rinse water often; wiping with dirty water just spreads the paste thinner.
How to tell when it is all gone: wait until the wall is fully dry, then run a flat hand across it. Tacky, slick or shiny patches are paste. Some people also wipe a damp dark cloth across the wall: a cloudy residue on the cloth means more washing.
Why it matters: painters will tell you leftover paste is a common reason fresh latex paint cracks or wrinkles, because the water in the paint rewets it. If some residue simply will not wash off, seal it instead of fighting it: Rust-Oleum lists Gardz as a product that “seals in old wallpaper adhesive and paste.” Then prime and paint as normal.
Expect a border to be harder than the paper around it. Borders were often hung over existing wallpaper or paint with a stronger, vinyl to vinyl adhesive, and Zinsser warns that “borders that are difficult to remove may have been hung with a non-water soluble adhesive and may require prolonged soaking and scraping.” Score it, soak it with a stripper, give it two or three applications rather than one, and scrape gently: a border usually sits on a painted wall you want to keep. If it was hung over wallpaper, remove both together.
Hiring a pro averaged $740 for one 10 by 8 foot room with 8 foot ceilings on plaster walls, with most jobs between $650 and $950, according to Fixr’s wallpaper removal cost guide (last updated January 31, 2025, so treat it as a baseline rather than this year’s quote). Doing it yourself with a scoring tool, a sprayer and vinegar costs under $50, by This Old House’s estimate.
| What is priced | Pro cost (Fixr) |
|---|---|
| Strippable wallpaper | $0.75 to $1.50 per sq ft |
| Traditional (porous) paper | $1 to $2 per sq ft |
| Vinyl (nonporous) paper | $1.50 to $2.50 per sq ft |
| Chemical stripping | $0.75 to $1.50 per sq ft |
| Steaming | $1 to $2 per sq ft, plus $30 to $50 for equipment |
| Labor rate | $40 to $55 per hour, usually 1 to 2 days |
| Removal plus painting | $2.75 to $6 per sq ft, depending on wall repairs |
Pros price by wall area, not floor area. To estimate yours, multiply the length of each papered wall by its height and subtract doors and windows; our guide to how to calculate the square footage of a room walks through the arithmetic. A single accent wall of about 12 by 8 feet is under 100 square feet, which is why one feature wall is a very reasonable first DIY project.
Let the wall dry, check it with a raking light, repair, prime and then decide what goes on it. Hold a flashlight flat against the wall in a dark room: every ridge, gouge and bubble shows up as a shadow. Fix those before primer, because paint shows a damaged wall more than wallpaper did.
Then the fun part. A wall that has been under the same pattern for 20 years is a good moment to try something you would not have risked on a fresh wall:

A plaster finish forgives a wall that came out of wallpaper removal slightly uneven, where flat paint would show every repair under a raking light. Render from our gallery.
See it before you buy paint. Take a photo of the bare wall and try colors and finishes on it with the AI wall texture and paint tool, which repaints the walls in your own photo and leaves the furniture, floor and windows as they are. The paint color finder matches real paint brands, and our tests of the best paint color visualizer apps and other AI wall color tools cover the brand apps. If you prefer to type what you want, the AI paint color prompts work in ChatGPT and Gemini too. And when the walls are done, our wall art size guide covers what to hang back up and how big.

The color drenched version: walls and built ins in one warm terracotta finish. A choice like this is easier to commit to once you have seen it on a photo of your own room. Render from our gallery.
We are not painters or drywall finishers, and we did not strip a wall for this article. We build MeltFlex, an AI interior design tool, so the part we know first hand is the after: what a bare wall can become and how to see it before committing. The removal instructions come from primary sources we read ourselves on October 5, 2026: Zinsser’s technical data sheet for DIF Liquid Concentrate (Rust-Oleum, revised January 2022), the Wagner 715 Power Steamer manual, Rust-Oleum’s Gardz product page, the EPA’s Renovation, Repair and Painting pages, Fixr’s cost guide and the This Old House video and its description. The peel and stick advice is from Tempaper’s install guide and the asbestos warning from Bob Vila, the one secondary source here. Quotes are verbatim.
What we left out on purpose: a fabric softener ratio, because no manufacturer or test backs any of the ones in circulation; an asbestos prevalence figure, because we could not find a federal source for one; and Angi and HomeAdvisor cost figures, because their pages would not load for us to check. The decision table and the order of methods are our own synthesis of those sources. The images are renders from our gallery, chosen to show the room types and wall setups this guide talks about. They are not photographs of real removal jobs.
Find out what type you have first, then match the method to it. Lift a corner and pull: if the whole sheet comes away dry, it is strippable and you need no water at all. If only the top layer peels, peel it dry and soak the paper backing left behind. If nothing peels, score the surface lightly, soak it with hot water or a wallpaper stripper, wait about 15 minutes and scrape. Use a steamer only on plaster walls or for several stubborn layers.
Dry peeling, when the paper allows it. Modern strippable and peel and stick papers are made to come off in whole sheets without water. For traditional paper, the easiest wet method is a 1:1 mix of hot water and white vinegar in a spray bottle, left on for 10 to 15 minutes before scraping, which is what This Old House demonstrates on strippable and vinyl paper. Patience does more than force: rewetting a section that resists is faster than scraping it.
Rewet it and wipe it off, then rinse. Zinsser's instructions for its DIF stripper are to reapply the solution, wait 15 minutes, scrape or sponge the residue off and rinse with clean water. A rag dipped in hot water and vinegar does the same job on light residue. Run a hand over the dry wall afterward: if it feels tacky or slick, there is paste left. Paste left under latex paint can crack it, so either wash it off completely or seal it with a product made for that, such as Zinsser Gardz, before painting.
Use as little water as possible and never let it soak in for long. Wallpaper hung on drywall that was never primed bonds to the drywall's paper face, and water softens that face along with the paste. Peel the top layer dry where you can, score lightly, wet one small section at a time and scrape with a flexible plastic or broad blade held low. Skip the steamer on drywall unless nothing else works. If the brown paper of the drywall tears, stop, let it dry, seal it with a sealer such as Gardz and skim it with joint compound.
It can help on paper that already takes water, but it is a household trick, not a tested product. No manufacturer publishes a ratio, and the recipes online vary widely. Most of the work is done by the hot water soaking through the paper and softening the paste. It does nothing on vinyl or painted paper until you score the surface so the liquid can get behind it. A commercial enzyme stripper or the vinegar mix is a more predictable choice.
Start at a corner and pull the panel slowly at a low angle, close to parallel with the wall, rather than straight out. If it resists or starts to lift paint, warm the adhesive with a hair dryer on a low or medium setting and keep going. Clean any sticky residue with warm soapy water. Tempaper, one of the bigger peel and stick brands, recommends its paper only on walls primed and painted in satin or semi-gloss, not matte or flat, and only after fresh paint has fully cured. If yours went up on flat paint or a freshly painted wall, expect some paint to come off with it.
Hiring it out averaged $740 for a 10 by 8 foot room with 8 foot ceilings on plaster walls, with most jobs between $650 and $950, according to Fixr's cost guide (updated January 31, 2025). By the square foot, strippable paper ran $0.75 to $1.50, traditional paper $1 to $2 and vinyl $1.50 to $2.50. Doing it yourself with a scoring tool, a spray bottle and vinegar costs under $50, by This Old House's estimate.
You can, but it is a compromise. Paint can make wallpaper seams show more, and the water in latex paint can loosen old paste so the paper bubbles. If the paper is well stuck, smooth and you accept the risk, seal it with an oil or shellac based primer first, never straight latex. It also makes the paper much harder to remove later, because paint blocks the water any future stripper needs. Removing it is more work now and less trouble afterward.
The summary, if you read nothing else: peel a corner first. Dry peel what releases, soak what absorbs, score what sheds water, and keep steam for plaster. Wash every trace of paste off or seal it, repair torn drywall with a sealer before compound, and prime before anything new goes on.
Before you pick the paint, photograph the bare wall and try the color on it with the wall texture tool. It is quicker than three sample pots.